As for me i began hearing a drip at night when all was quiet and located the source to be my Kenmore Model 110, 90 Series High Capacity washing machine. I opened the washer's door and noticed the washer's plastic water distribution cowl had water dripping from it. I knew the water inlet valve had to be the culprit.
Here are photos and information to assist you in the event you should have a leaking washing machine or water leaking into your washing machine's tub. This repair posting will help you a bunch also if you should just need to remove the Kenmore washing machine's cover, exterior housing for this repair posting covers this in great detail.
The tools you will need for the job... don't forget the 1/4" nut runner it makes the job so much easier.
First things first, unplug the washing machine's power cord.
Next you will need to remove the control panel's end covers. This is very simple, you simply grasp the top portion of the cover as seen in the picture below. Pull the rear portion up and towards you, just be easy and you will be fine. You do not need any tools for this. These covers snap right off and expose the screws which need to be removed.
There are two screws, one located at each end of the control panel. (see note on photo). Remove these two screws in order to remove the washer's exterior cabinet.
Once the screws are removed grasp the control panel by each end....pull towards you and...then upwards to dislodge the locking dawgs in the cabinet.
Carefully rotate the control panel rearwards.
The top will stay in this position once placed liked such.
Now take a stout and sturdy standard screwdriver needed to remove the spring tensioners holding the back panel to the washer's cabinet. Place the screwdriver in the front cutout on top of this tensioner. Push down...and move the handle rearward all in one motion. You will feel the tensioner being released.
Remove these two tension springs and simply reinstall them in the reverse manner. After placing back in it's appropriate location simply use the screwdriver, pushing downwards until it snaps back in place.
Do not forget to unplug this harness connection here before attempting to move the cabinet. It might require a little assistance with the use of a screwdriver. Just be careful and take your time so that you don't break the little plastic connector's locking tab mechanism.
Carefully grab both corners of the cabinet and pull it towards you taking care not to allow the cabinet to fall hard when dislodging from it's position.
Just rock it right towards you, it will pivot right towards you. Ensure it isn't caught on anything and remove it completely.
Now turn the water valves off...remember the left valve is the hot valve and the right valves are always the cold valves, at least in North America anyway. Please disregard the nastiness in my valve control box, it is not readily accessible during our routine dusting days. LOL...
After having turned both water valves off, remove the hoses from the water inlet valve housing. You may need to use some channel lock pliers to loosen the fitting, just use caution if you use the pliers to snug the fittings back onto the new valve. SNUG...it doesn't have to be overtight...there are rubber washers inside the fitting to ensure water doesn't leak.
Remove this single screw holding valve body to the panel. Nice to have a nut runner to prevent slipping and such in tight quarters.
Simply place water inlet hose inside of washer's tub to allow water to run in tub instead of leak on one's floor.
Notice the position of the water inlet valve (blue in color with solenoids attached) the white wire lead is for the cold and the red wire lead is for the hot portion of the valve. Just remember the red lead goes back on the bottom.
Here is the new solenoid controlled water inlet valve.
Install hose on new one and ensure the hose clamp is securely in place behind the barbed end of the hose inlet.
Install screw to hold valve housing in place.
Now is a good time to take a peek around inside of the washing machine and check out the other components. I discovered a rusty, practically useless hose clamp on my washer's plastic, water distribution cowl which i replaced.
Next slide cabinet back into place:
The front of the cabinet must slide underneath the frame's lower lip, however the sides of the cabinet sit on top of the frame's sides. The frame's metal protrusions pointing upwards fit into slots in the cabinet's bottom. Just ensure they find their proper home and replace other components in reverse order. The pic below is looking inside of the cabinet towards front.
The culprit of the continuous water leak dripping water inside of my washing machine's tub. A water inlet valve with hot and cold water solenoids. This valve however has served it's time for it has been in my Kenmore 90 Series, Model 110 high capacity washing machine for over 10+ years.
Valve replaced, water turned back on and the washing machine assembled completely was an approximate 25-35 minute job had i not been taking pictures. So this is certainly something one can do in an evening.
If this picture tutorial of how to take apart a kenmore washing machine and/or replace a faulty water inlet valve has been useful please let me know by donating...it takes a lot of time, effort and energies to create this blog for others to benefit from..