Kenmore 90 Series Clothes Dryer Heating safety sensors test and replacement procedures for Models 110.66901692 and Models 110.66902692
Have you recently discovered that your Kenmore 90 series, Model 110 clothes dryer or either your Heavy Duty, Super Capacity Plus Kenmore clothes dryer has not been drying your clothes? Perhaps your clothes dryer will run but the dryer will not dry your clothes.
If your clothes dryer has stopped heating and drying your clothes then the info below will definitely help you.
The following is a picture tutorial / technical manual, to aid you the homeowner in being able to repair your clothes dryer that will not heat up.
If your Kenmore Clothes Dryers has stopped running mid-cycle or either runs but has stopped heating it is more than likely a faulty safety sensor. Safety sensors are designed and installed during manufacture of the clothes dryers to prevent potential house fires from a clothes dryer that would potentially overheat. They are great when they are working properly but when your dryer will no longer dry your clothes after an hour cycle of running it leaves you the homeowner wondering.
These safety sensors are a normally-closed electrical switch which under normal conditions keep the circuit closed at all times to allow the free flow of electrical current thereby allowing the heating element to heat up. The interior contacts inside this switch would normally only open (disengage contact) only if the dryer's heating element were to reach some 'factory set' heat range that is considered too high. At this point the switch opens and disrupts the electrical circuit and the dryer's heating element stops heating immediately.
As it is with most mechanical applications after some time these safety sensor switches become faulty and thus would create the situation of your clothes dryer running but not heating. The electrical path's flow serving your heating element has been disrupted but not the motor's electrical needs, thus the reason your dryer is running but not heating.
First before you get too involved is to ensure that you have located the correct breaker in your electrical panel for your clothes dryer and turn it OFF. The breaker should have been identified by the electrician on the inside of the panel's cover. A typical clothes dryer breaker should be a double pole, 30 amp breaker. Just look for 30 on the breaker's handle.
Just be sure you have turned off the correct one, you could unplug your dryer if you are not sure or if your breakers are not identified on the schematic on the inside cover of your electrical panel's cover.
After i wired my home i placed appropriate stickers on the panel's breakers to aid my wife and myself in locating the correct ones later on, great suggestion. So turn off that 30 amp dryer breaker.
1/4" nut driver
Electrical Volt meter
How to remove my clothes dryer's compartment panel- (located underneath dryer door)
The heating element and the safety sensors that need to be tested are on the side of this housing where the arrow is pointed.
Note: These wires have a slight bend in them which depicts their frontal or rear locations which will aid you when reconnecting them after reinstalling the element housing.
replacement of heating element post)
Next remove the thermostat from the side of the element's housing. Check for an Ohm reading across both of the terminal contacts, once again it does not matter which lead you touch to which terminal. I received a very low .1 percent of an Ohm, meaning their is almost perfect continuity across the interior contacts. So this is not my problem either. If you do not receive an ohm reading it means that your thermostat is faulty.
The contacts in this thermostat open when the temperature inside the element housing reaches around 250 degrees. During normal operation this thermostat will open and close dependent upon that temp. However, this thermostat will always be closed at room temperature, so you should receive an ohm reading, if nothing then your thermostat is faulty. Apparently the interior contacts are 'burnt open', so this would be your culprit.
Next, check the heat limit cutoff fuse by removing it and checking it for continuity through the contacts.
This is a normally closed switch meaning that the contacts are always closed unless it senses too much heat inside the dryer. So you should receive an ohm reading of some value, If you receive no ohm reading than the contacts are burnt out and are no longer 'closed' and thus are no longer touching therefore the switch is faulty. These limit fuses are rated to open at approximately 390 degrees. They are a 'one time' fuse, if you receive no ohm reading then you must replace.
- Install heating element housing and put screws into their proper place.
- Place the hot wire feed on the element terminal
- place the lead that you removed off of the rear cutoff switch to the other terminal on the element
- You are bypassing the safety sensors just for a moment to verify that the dryer will heat up when these sensors are bypassed
- do you recall that i mentioned that the heating element terminals were different sizes so that one could not purposely bypass the sensors by installing the wires in this manner? Also remember that my thermostat switch is in good condition so I can use this in the test.
- I just connected the return hot to the thermostat, then took the thermostat's short lead to my element terminal. ah-ha, it fit, now i am just feeding through the element and the thermostat, bypassing the faulty cutoff sensor in the rear
- Yep, the element heated up..confirming that the sensor in hand is the culprit
reinstall housing screws
Please note: sometimes the reason your 'thermal overload' fuse was opened (blown) in the first place may be directly linked to decreased exhaust flow resulting in a back-up of excess heat inside the dryer housing. (see here for further regarding cleaning out and replacing your air duct)
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Ask Chris a question
What if you just replaced a sensor a week or two ago and now they are blown or gone faulty again?