Monday, December 19, 2011

Kenmore 90 Series Model 110 Clothes Dryer is squealing and making noise while running its cycle. Also - How to gain access to interior.

Is your Kenmore 90 Series Model 110 clothes dryer serranating you with a mild music of its own.  The sounds may be perceived as squeals, squeaks or may just be creating plain noise.

This is a solution that may remedy your issue.  These Kenmore Model 110, 90 Series Clothes dryers contain 4 rubber rollers in which the turning drum rotates on during its cycle.  2 are located at the rear of the housing and 2 are located at the front of the dryer housing.

To gain entry to these wheels to add needed lubrication, unfortunately there is no quick fix, for the dryer will need to be dismantled.  Do not let this scare you away from fixing the noisy dryer however for it is not as difficult as it may first appear.

First turn your breaker in your electrical panel that feeds your dryer.  It should be labeled as such on the electrical schematic on the back of the electrical panel door informing you which breaker serves your clothes dryer.  If not don't worry, it should be a 30 amp, two pole breaker - flip those off or simply unplug the dryer...hey that's easy.

Next after you are certain the power is off, you will need to remove the dryer filter, just go ahead and do this now because if you forget when you get really involved later on - it could possibly be damaged.

Next remove the two end caps on the control panel by easily popping them off, may need a flat head screwdriver for this, just go easy starting at the bottom edge.

After both end screws are removed, grab the control panel at the ends and pull the entire control panel towards you to about an inch to dislodge it from the top of the enclosure then flip it to the rear.   You will feel the control panel slide forward about an inch and then it will stop.  At this point flip it towards the rear.   It can be placed to remain in place if carried far enough back.
Once you have the control panel flip backwards and it is in place, remove the three screws attaching the control panel back plate to the top part of the enclosure.

Now after these three screws are removed you can simply slide the top towards you, this will disengage it from some locking tabs on the front end of the dryer.  Now just lift off.

Now to the bottom front of the dryer to remove the lower cover.

Insert a stiff putty knife along the top of the cover, approximately 3.5" - 4" from the end.  Get your putty knife above the black locking devices as seen in the pictures above, and depress the locking devices downward. (you may need a flashlight)  There is one on each end.  They do not need to be pressed down at the same time, just press one closed with the putty knife inserted above the locking device and pull that end towards you slightly as you do so.  Just pull the cover off after depressing and dislodging both sides.


To the right of the drum, reach alongside the element housing and remove the leads feeding the element itself, there are two.  Just look for one wire on each end that is being fed from the dryer's wiring harness.  You do not need to remove all the other connections (jumpers) that are located there on the element housing.  Just the two that are being fed from the dryer's wiring harness.  This is obvious, just look really well and you will see what i am talking about.

When removing the leads, use finesse and try not to wiggle the terminals too much in either direction for you can damage the spade terminals on the thermostat and thermal cut-off if you do.  Just pull and wiggle very little, using caution and finesse and you should be able to get the two off that are feeding the element housing without damaging the spade terminals.

Now get you a 1/4" nut runner and remove the housing itself.  Remove the two screws attaching the foot of the housing to the bottom of the dryer's enclosure.   
Very carefully so as to not to bend the terminals of the thermostat and thermal cut off on the side of the housing against the underside of the drum, twist the housing clockwise and pull it out of the rear exhaust duct.  It seats in there about 1/2" deep.  Dislodges very easily and re-installs just as easy.

Once the element housing has been removed then you can remove the belt that turns the drum.  Reach under the drum with your right hand and seat the tension pulley in the palm of your right hand as you hold the belt in the fingertips of your right hand.  Push the tension pulley towards the motor and remove the belt from the pulley on the motor shaft.  Very easily return the tension pulley to its position.  (installation is reverse order, its really easy if you sit the tension pulley into the palm of your right hand)

Now the belt has been removed, time to remove the drum.
 This front cover of the enclosure (cabinet) needs to be removed.  There are four screws total, one on all the corners.  Remove the ground wire located on the bottom right of this cover and disconnect the four wire leads located in the upper left corner of this cover.  Just remember what wires were disconnected from where. You should not get them mixed up because of the memory in the wire and the varying lengths will distinguish their whereabouts for you when you are ready to re-assemble later on.

Slide drum forward a little bit through the concave depressions in the side wall panels and slip the belt off the rear end of the drum.

After removal of the drum ensure you clean this rim really well where the drum rides.  Also, clean the drum and vacuum the felt gasket on both ends.

Clean all the way around this rim's entirety ensuring all grime, dirt and grease has been removed. 
The culprit of your noisy clothes dryer, these rollers that the dryer drum rolls around upon. You have two at the front end and two at the rear of the dryer.  They need to be removed, the pins cleaned and then lubed with some good light-medium weight lithium lubricant.
Be really careful with these cheaply made plastic, triangular retainers.  They can be removed very carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers, just take your time and go easy. I did not break any when removing mine, they seem to be a little ductile and may not break as easily as one may think, however use caution and ease and you should be fine.  
Clean up these wheel pins by removing all hair, grime, dirt and wiping them clean with a rag before applying a layer of some light-light/medium weight lithium lubricant to the pins.  Then reinstall your wheels and you are good to go.

 While you have the drum and all of the components removed:
  1. vacuum the entire area inside the dryer
  2. vacuum the exhaust duct out thoroughly leaving the fan blower housing
  3. vacuum the interior of the fan blower housing, may want to vacuum from rear of the dryer through the length of the duct
  4. vacuum motor but be careful not to nick the electrical wire windings inside the motor
  5. lube the tension pulley shaft
  6. check your belt for any signs of aging, wear and determine if it might need replacing or not.  If you do not see any signs of stress or dry-rot cracks, you should be fine to reinstall.

be careful when vacuuming the motor to ensure you do not nick or injure the electrical wiring of the windings inside the motor.
Lube this shaft here, (tension pulley)
Reinstall everything in reverse order:
  1. install drum - make sure you place the belt over the drum before you seat the drum in its place.  Then  seat the drum around its rim and on the rollers in the rear
  2. replace front cover - replace grounding wire, replace 4 wires in the front, upper left corner to their appropriate positions
  3. now place on the right side of tension pulley, place tension pulley in the palm of your right hand, push the pulley towards the motor, using your fingers orient the belt around the motor shaft pulley and easily allow the spring loaded tension pulley to tighten up on the belt
  4. the rest is simply replacing the parts as before mentioned.

If you found this posting helpful and beneficial please consider giving a donation via the provided PayPal donate button.

It takes hours to compose these tutorials that are not readily available anywhere else on the web that i could find, thus the reasoning behind my creating this blog - to help other do-it-yourselfers out.

Thanks guys, Chris


  1. Thanks, Chris for your time and trouble. Donation made.

    1. I am glad it served you well Jay. Not a lot out there in regards to schematics, etc; to repair these type dryers, thus the reason for my taking the time to compose such a posting back when. Yes it did indeed take some time and 'quite a bit of it' to compose such an in-depth, photo heavy blog.

      Thanks for your consideration.


  2. Chris, thanks for the site!! I am in the middle of a repair (waiting for a part to come in), which will hopefully work. Your site was very helpful. Donation made.

  3. Thanks for the site!! I am in the middle of a repair which will hopefully work (waiting for a part to come in). Your site was very helpful. Donation made.

    1. I am so glad that it served you well, I hope the detail was thorough and straightforward.